Breeding stunning Maine Coon Cats for health, temperament, and joy
About our Emotional Support Program
Here is where you will find in-depth information on my business practices for my Cattery. This entire page and my contracts are required reading before you can move on to join my waitlist or reserve a kitten. While going through this information is on the honor system, going through it will save us both a lot of time, trouble and miscommunication so we can start our relationship on the right foot. At the bottom of the page you will find the link that will take you to my contracts.
Quality
All cats in my breeding program are pedigreed, or also called “purebred”. This means that I can trace their lineage back for a minimum of 5 generations and there are only other pedigreed Maine Coon Cats in their family tree. I also strive to have cats in my breeding program that meet the Maine Coon Breed Standard.
In the Emotional Support Maine Coons Program, you only get to choose from the few kittens I feel will be best suited for you. This is because the purpose of an emotional support animal is to be loving, affectionate and like to spend most of their time with their people. The color/pattern or gender of a kitten should come second to the personality. I know the personalities of each of my kittens and I know what personalities would make the best emotional support companion. So I do my best to give you a choice from the ones that will be the best fit for you, your lifestyle, and your home.
The kittens in my Emotional Support Maine Coons Program are the same quality as any other kitten in my cattery. I do not put sick kittens, or kittens with problems to this Program to try and unload them. If I have sick kittens or kittens with problems, I keep them and deal with whatever the issue is myself, and then let them go to a new family if/when they are better.
Timeline
We have a "general" Waitlist and a Waitlist for the ESMCP. Everyone gets a kitten in the order they join our waitlists, and those who join our "general" Waitlist may get a kitten after someone in the ESMCP. However, not every kitten in every litter will be eligible to be in the Emotional Support Maine Coons Program. This means the wait for an emotional support kitten could be much longer than if you join our "general" Waitlist. The only acceptation for this is for military/first responders in the ESMCP, and breeders. Those people will be bumped to the top of the Waitlist and receive preference in our next litter, in the order they join. There is not a waitlist fee to join the Waitlist in the Emotional Support Maine Coons Program.
I do not like to keep a long waitlist. So, I cap my waitlist when I feel like it will be longer that 10 months before I can get someone a kitten. To give you an idea of what this means, I first have to wait for my Queens to be ready and healthy enough to breed. This usually means I do not breed a Queen for the first time until she is 12 months old. An active Queen I usually do not breed for 3-5 months after her last litter has left. Once a Queen can breed, if the mating is successful, she will be pregnant for 9-10 weeks. Then once she gives birth, I keep the kittens until they are 14 weeks old. So, that means it will be a minimum of 5 months for the first person on my waitlist, assuming they joined at the time of mating.
My Queens tend to have 4-6 kittens in a litter. So, looking at the breeding timeline, which Queens I will be breeding and how many kittens I can expect from each of them, I can usually give a fairly accurate timeline to when you can expect to bring your kitten home.
Requirements for the Emotional Support Maine Coons Program
In order to qualify for the Emotional Support Maine Coons Program, there are several things that must be done. First, your application must be approved by me. Since you have received this informational packet, you’re off to a good start!
The next part of the application is to check on your references. If you provided the name and number for your current veterinarian, I will need to talk with them. Make sure you have called your veterinarian and given them permission to speak with them. I do not need to know medical or financial specifics on you or your current pets. I only need your vet to verify that you do take good care of your pets, have them vaccinated appropriately, and get them medical attention when needed.
If you are renting your home/apartment, I will not need to speak with your landlord to verify that you are allowed to have a cat. Emotional Support Animals are covered by a US Act for disabilities, and your landlord cannot prevent you from having one live in your home with you. However, you will be responsible for doing that legwork with your landlord. Your therapist will have to write you a litter that meets specific criteria so that you can then register your kitten as an Emotional Support Animal. This is the only way you can have a cat live in your home with you if your landlord has said they will not allow it. You can find more information and resources on this from my website on the Emotional Support Maine Coons page.
The third thing I will need is a letter from your therapist. This letter needs to be on his/her professional letterhead, state that you are being treated by said therapist, and that in his/her professional opinion you would benefit from an emotional support animal. If you are renting your home, your therapist also needs to include in the letter that they are willing to help you get the kitten registered as an Emotional Support Animal so there will not be any issues with your landlord over the kitten.
I require this letter from your therapist stating that you are in need of an Emotional Support Animal because I want to make sure the people in this Program truly need a kitten. There are so many dishonest people out there trying to take advantage of the good people are trying to do for those who need it. So, I want to make sure I am doing all I can to be sure my kittens are going to help the people who truly need it.
Finally, there are 2-3 short questionnaires we will (if we haven't already) send you the links to for you to fill out. These questionnaires will tell us more about you, your needs, wants, and expectations in a kitten, and what you need and want from us as the breeder.
Once all of those things have been done and approved, and you have gone through this entire informational packet, you can move on to the final step.
Our Program is meant for those who have severe anxiety and/or depression, as well as a host of other conditions. We do not have a checklist for what it takes to get approved into the Program. Each application is judged on a case by case basis. However, you do need to be actively working with a therapist to treat the condition for which you need an emotional support animal.
Unfortunately there are A LOT of people who need and want an emotional support animal, and much of the time we get more applications for people wanting to join the Program than not. So, we have to be very protective of our ESMCP, and very picky about who we approve for the Program. We sometimes have to make the difficult decision to deny people. This does not necessarily mean they can't get a kitten, they just need to join our "general" Waitlist and get a "regular" pet kitten.
If you are denied for the Program but not for a kitten, that isn't necessarily a bad thing. Just about every kitten we produce makes a great emotional support kitten and companion, and if that is what you are looking for we will of course help you pick the right kitten that will meet your needs. You also can usually get a kitten quicker by joining our "general" Waitlist. And, you get much more freedom when picking your kitten and are not necessarily bound to just 1 or 2 choices. See the chart at the bottom of the page to help determine if the Emotional Support Maine Coons Program is right for you.
The Waitlist
As soon as you have gone through this information, and I have talked with your references (if necessary), you will either get your final approval, or be denied. If you are denied we may need to talk further so you can be approved, or I may just feel that my kittens will not be a good match for your home.
If you are approved, you will immediately be able to join my official waitlist. I will email you the Waitlist Agreement with instructions on how to sign it. There is not a fee to join the waitlist for my Emotional Support Maine Coons Program.
Once you have signed the Waitlist Agreement and sent it back to me, I will sign the contract and email it back to you.
Your number on the Waitlist is subject to change. This is because if someone with a service-related need (i.e., military or police) for an Emotional Support Animal would like a kitten through my Program, their name will jump to the top of the waitlist as long as they have completed the application process and been approved before the litter is 8 weeks old. Once the litter is 8 weeks old, anyone who joins my waitlist with a service-related need will be put at the top of the list for the next litter.
You can click here to see how many people are currently on my Waitlist.
I will contact you when the litter of kittens you will be getting your kitten from is almost due. After the litter is born, I will send you updates and you can watch the kittens grow on my Facebook page.
If you decide that you would like the option to pick your kitten, you can join my regular waitlist at any time before you reserve your kitten. Once your kitten is reserved you no longer have the option to leave the Program. If you decide you would like to join my regular waitlist, you will be removed from the Emotional Support Maine Coons Program and will have to pay full pet price for the kitten. More information can be found here.
Reserving a Kitten
Kittens in the Emotional Support Maine Coons Program are not reserved ahead of time like they are when you join my general waitlist. This is because the personalities and temperament of each kitten doesn't start to come out until they are 8-10 weeks old. Because I want to make sure you get the right kitten, I watch them grow and get to know their personalities, before letting you pick your kitten.
When the Emotional Support Litter is 6-8 weeks old, I will let you know which kitten(s) I feel will best suite your needs and wants in a kitten. I will try and give you a choice of 2-3 different kittens to pick from, but there may only be 1 kitten I feel would be best for you. In that case, you will not be able to pick your kitten, you will just get that kitten. If you have a gender preference I will also try and make sure at least 1 of the kittens I give you a choice from, is your preferred gender. But again, I cannot guarantee the gender you would like is the gender I feel will be best for you.
Once I have let you know which kittens you have to choose from, you will then have 3 days to pick which kitten you would like. Once you have picked your kitten, you will have 2 days to complete the buying process. If there is only 1 kitten that will be a good fit for you, you will have 2 days to complete the buying process, after I let you know which kitten you are getting.
Once you have completed the buying process, you will receive weekly pictures/videos and updates on your kitten. You will also have the chance to name your kitten.
Once you know you will be getting a kitten from the newest Emotional Support Litter, you will be preparing for your kitten to arrive in your home. You will want to start this before you pick your kitten to be sure you have enough time. My website has a page with all the things I give, feed and use on my cats and kittens, along with links to where you can buy them. That way you will be able to have everything ready for your kitten before he/she arrives. This page will be especially important for you since I require you to keep your kitten on the same food I feed, and same litter I use for the first 30 days your kitten is in your home. This will help your kitten adjust easier and be a little less stressed.
Please make sure you read the “Instructions for Acclimation” section in the Kitten Care Agreement. This is especially important because those instructions are what you should/should not do with your kitten when he/she first gets to your home. These instructions will help set you and your kitten up for success together.
After your kitten has been purchased but is still in my care, the kitten is still mine. I call all the shots and do what I feel is best for the kitten with the advice of my veterinarian. Until the kitten is in your home, you do not have the option to make decisions for the kitten. I do have the option to void all contracts, refund your money (possibly), and find a new home for the kitten if you become difficult and demanding.
Visiting
If you are close enough to come visit, I do allow 1 visit after the kittens are 8 weeks old and have had their first set of vaccines. This is a precaution to protect my cats and kittens as best as I can. Kittens lose the immunity they get from their mother around 8-10 weeks of age. So, until they get that first set of vaccines at 9 weeks, they are vulnerable and susceptible to sickness. It is my job to do everything I can to keep my babies healthy and preventing them from having contact with people outside my household until they are older is one way, I do that.
Visits are also not allowed unless you have already reserved your kitten or are coming to reserve your kitten. Again, this is for the protection of my kittens. My cattery is not a petting zoo.
If you are close enough that you would like to come a pick out your kitten in person, I can make arrangements that as well. However, that will likely be before the kittens are 8 weeks old. So, in those cases you will be able to see the kittens, but you will not be able to touch or handle them. I will pick up each kitten and point out their unique features so you can get a good look them.
If you have children you would like to bring with you on your visit, that is allowed. However, children under 10 years old are not allowed to pick up any of the kittens, including your reserved kitten. Once again, this is for the protection of my kittens. Playful kittens are often very squirmy and have sharp claws, even if they have recently been trimmed. Children often do not react well in those situations, even if they have handled kittens before, which could result in the kitten being dropped and then potentially hurt. So, in order to keep my kittens safe, it is my blanket policy that children under 10 years old can only pet the kittens, not handle them. I need to ensure my kittens are kept safe for their families, and even your reserved kitten is mine and my responsibility until he/she is old enough to leave my home and join yours.
Visits are limited to 30 minutes. I do this because a visit can be stressful on all of the cats and kittens in my household, but also my family. You do have to remember when coming to visit that you are not entering a business, but a home. Please remember that my husband and I have 5 children, 2 dogs and many cats. My children and dogs may be present and there will likely be some noise and clutter as we are a busy family. Being gracious and understanding when you come to visit is much appreciated.
During your visit you will be able to see your kitten, his/her littermates, parents, and the cattery. The nursery may or may not be available for you to view depending on if I have a litter of young kittens.
Leaving the Cattery
Kittens can leave the cattery when they are 14 weeks old. They leave with their first 2 set of vaccines. When your kitten is 12 weeks old, and after their final vet check, the Health Contract will need to be signed. I will email you everything when it is time.
Occasionally, depending on the situation I will let a kitten leave early. But kittens will never leave before 12 weeks old. Generally, I will schedule the bigger kittens to leave first, maybe even a couple days early, and then schedule the smaller kittens to leave last to give them a little more time to put on some weight. Sometimes the bigger kittens will push the smaller kittens away from the food bowls so they cannot get as much food. Having the bigger kittens leave first and then the smaller kittens leave 4-5 days later gives those little ones a chance to eat and not have to fight for the food. I do not like to let kittens leave when they weigh less than 5lbs. Luckily, those smaller kittens usually put on some weight quit quickly so they are close to 5lbs if not over.
If you would like to come pick up your kitten in person, you have that option. Pickups are limited to 30 minutes. I do this because any stranger coming into our home can be stressful on all of the cats and kittens in my household, but especially for your kitten. We will schedule your pickup time when your kitten is around 12 weeks old. I do not schedule overlapping appointments with other families and only allow 2-3 pickups a day. So those appointments are scheduled on a first come first serve basis.
My Pet Nanny Service...
If you would like your kitten brought to you, I have pet nannies that can fly your kitten to you. These pet nannies are my personal, trusted friends and family members who love cats and flying. So, the pet nanny will fly the kitten, in-cabin, to your airport of choice. You will then meet the pet nanny at the airport and pick up your kitten there.
To ensure the safety of the kitten, I require you to let me know who will be meeting the pet nanny at the airport, their name and cell phone number. This information will be passed onto the pet nanny, and she will require the pick-up person to show their ID before the kitten is turned over. You will also receive information on your pet nanny, along with a picture so you can get to know her a little.
To arrange to have the kitten flown to you, you will need to sign my Travel Agreement. That explains all of your responsibilities and allows you to tell me what airport you want the kitten to fly to, what dates work best for you to pick up the kitten, and how much you want to spend on the flights. I then find a pet nanny and book all of the travel myself. When I have everything booked, I will send you a bill for the total amount and you will be required to pay that within 3 days. If the bill is not paid within 3 days, there will be a 20% fee added to the total amount of the bill, and that amount will be added to the balance due for your kitten. All monies must be paid before your kitten can leave my Cattery.
The travel expenses include: the airline tickets to and from you for the pet nanny, travel insurance, the airline pet fee and an airline approved kitten carrier. Those things will all be included in the bill, and the bill will have an itemized breakdown of exactly how much each part cost. Finally, when the kitten is delivered to you at the airport, you will give her $250 in cash for her services.
When we know for sure that you will be getting a kitten from my current Emotional Support Litter, we can make travel arrangements for your kitten if you would like to use one of my pet nannies. I know booking travel for your kitten before you have picked him/her and completed the buying process is not necessarily the ideal way to do it, but unfortunately that is our best option to get you the best price on airline tickets. You do have the option to wait and book travel after you have picked and completed the buying process for your kitten. You just need to be aware that plane tickets will likely be more expensive at that point.
If you would like to fly with your kitten yourself, that is an option as well. I will meet you at my closest airport to deliver the kitten to you, and then you can fly him/her home with you. If you choose to fly your kitten that way, you are responsible for making your own travel arrangements. I am more than happy to assist you though, since I fly kittens a lot.
*Kittens that are being delivered by a pet nanny are not able to leave with canned food. Airlines do not allow canned food in the cabin.
Health Agreement
The Health Contract with Spay/Neuter Agreement is the final contract that is signed. I cover a wide array of health problems, including genetic and general health issues, as well as sudden death of the kitten. If your kitten has any sort of health-related issues, they will be listed in the Health Agreement. (The only health issues I have had to put into a health contract have been an undescended testicle, umbilical hernia, and constipation). Again, the Health Agreement will not be signed until after your kitten's final vet check. This ensures we both know that the kitten you are taking home is completely healthy. Should the kitten not be completely healthy for some reason, we will update the Health Agreement and go from there so everything is done for the benefit of the kitten and all parties involved. Most of the time it only requires the kitten to stay in my cattery a few days longer for some antibiotics, and then he/she can join your family.
Spay/Neuter Agreement...
Starting in October 2023, all pet kittens will go home with a spay/neuter agreement with SpaySecure. SpaySecure is a 3rd party entity who partner with breeders to ensure their kittens who do not have breeding rights are spayed/neutered as expected. This is done at no additional cost to you, as the cost for SpaySecure is built into the price of each kitten. If you would like more information on SpaySecure, you can click here.
Growth...
Many people think that spaying/neutering a Maine Coon before 2-4 years old will stunt their growth or cause problems with their bones down the line. But really there is not enough solid research to support this. Truthfully, the research shows that Maine Coons who are spayed/neutered are larger and have longer, fluffier hair than those who are not spayed/neutered. Bone/join issues is a slight possibility. The research is mixed on if spaying/neutering early is good or bad for bone/joint growth. However, spaying/neutering a Maine Coon at 1 year has much less chance of causing bone/joint issues that spaying/neutering at 6 months or earlier. Spaying/neutering your kitten no later than 1 year old also prevents you from dealing with some really annoying behavioral issues, that may or may not resolve after you have the cat spayed/neutered.
Male Cats Spraying...
I have many people concerned about their male kitten spraying if they wait until 6 months to neuter him. But spraying is something most people are vastly uninformed about. Yes, most male cats spray if they are not neutered. However, spraying is an instinctual habit driven by the desire to breed. This will not happen until the male has reached sexual maturity and his breeding drive has fully kicked in. Especially if you do not have any female The likelihood of your male kitten spraying before he turns a year old is very small. Therefore, you will be perfectly safe to wait until your male kitten is even 10 months old to have him neutered.
Kitten Care Agreement
The Kitten Care Agreement is one of two final contracts you will sign before your kitten leaves the Cattery. This Agreement has all of my instructions for how to care for your kitten, including taking your kitten outdoors, declawing, food and litter brands and instructions for acclimating your kitten to your home. If you have a question on the best way to care for your kitten, it will likely be addressed in the Agreement. It is very important that this Agreement is followed for the health of the kitten, and to help you start your relationship off right. My ultimate goal is to set the two of you up for success!
The following are my Rules for Acclimation that must be followed to honor the Kitten Care Agreement and Health Contract...
The kitten must remain in your home and cannot be taken/let outside, in an outdoor enclosure, or be taken to another residence or facility for the first 5 days after entering your home. You may take your kitten to a licensed veterinarian, and I recommend you do so within the first 5 days of having your kitten home.
Your kitten is not to have run of the house and needs to be kept in a single room for the first 5 days of having your kitten home. You also must be quarantine your kitten from all household pets for the first 5 days of having your kitten home.
Your kitten must be kept on the same food and litter I use in my Cattery for the first 30 days.
Showing & Breeding
Kittens sold through my Emotional Support Maine Coons Program are never sold with breeding rights or show rights. They are meant to be your companion, and they cannot fulfill that role to the fullest if they are breeding and/or being shown.
If you are looking for a breeding or show kitten, please let me know before the Waitlist Agreement is signed. You will have to join my normal waitlist and pay the full kitten price. Most kittens I automatically give show rights to, but not all.
What is the Difference Between Getting a "Pet Only" kitten vs an Emotional Support Kitten?
Emotional Support Kitten
-A separate application and letter from your therapist is required to be approved for the Emotional Support Program.
-A limited number of kittens from a litter are available as emotional support kittens.
-Not every litter will have an emotional support kitten.
-Usually longer wait time.
-Kittens cost less.
-Your kitten's only purpose is to be your companion.
-You may have your kitten assigned to you, or only get to choose from 2-3 different kittens.
-Kittens are not given breeding or show rights.
- Your desire in color/pattern, gender, eye color, or polydactyl are not taken into consideration. Emotional support kittens are assigned based only on personality/temperament.
-You must take one of the kittens the Breeder feels will suite your needs and wants best. This almost guarantees you get the perfect companion kitten.
"Pet Only" Kitten
-Does not require a separate application or letter.
-95% of kittens in each litter go as pet only.
-Usually shorter wait times.
-Kittens cost more.
-Your kitten can serve multiple purposes.
-You can pick just about any available kitten from a litter you would like.
-Show quality kittens are automatically given show rights. Breeding rights are not given to pet only kittens.
-Breeder will recommend the kitten(s) we feel will best suit you, but you are not necessarily bound by those suggestions.
-When picking your kitten you can take color/pattern, gender, eye color, or polydactyl into consideration, as well as personality/temperament.
-There is a very high chance you will get an amazing emotional support and companion kitten.
Training an Emotional Support Cat
Training a cat for emotional support is somewhat tricky. Cats can be trained, however, when it comes to helping with emotional support, they can't exactly be trained for that. When a dog is going to a person as an ESA, they are trained to meet their person's specific needs. Dogs can be trained to sense when their person is having a panic attack, falling into a deep depression, stuck in an anxiety loop, or a host of other things, and preform a task. They can bring their person an object such as a blanket or medication bottle, or they can even be trained to sit next to or lay on their person's chest if that is what is needed. Cats cannot exactly be trained in this way. A cat may sense their person is in need of them and respond, but that is not necessarily going to happen each time. Maine Coons are still cats, and while they are amazing and love people, they can still have the classic "I don't care" attitude at times.
So what do our emotional support kittens do?
Mostly, they offer companionship. They are there to give attention to their person, but also to give their person something to focus on. Having a purring cat lay in your lap while you pet him is very calming and relaxing and can help ease anxiety and lower blood pressure. But an emotional support cat also gives a person something to take care of and live for. They help make you feel like you have a purpose and lift your spirit.
Do we do anything to train our emotional support kittens?
Yes! The first step we take is to carefully pick our breeding cats. We want breeding cats that make good emotional support cats themselves and love attention and people. When we have a litter of kittens, we watch the personalities and temperaments of each of them as they develop. Once we identify the kittens that show the most promise to be good emotional support cats, we start working on desensitizing them and make sure they are highly socialized. They go on car rides, meet people, are handled often, and get use to loud noises so they are not easily startled by anything. We try to make it so they are raised around people constantly, therefore they will always want to be around people. A lot of this happens with the entire litter, which is why so many of our kittens are great for emotional support, whether that is their main purpose or not.
Is there anything you can do to train your kitten once you get him/her home?
Yes, and no. Like we said, cats can't be trained like dogs. But what you can do is make sure your kitten is with you as much as possible. Kittens can easily and quickly adapt. So if you are not spending time with your kitten like we did, they will at first cry a lot, telling you they want attention. But if they don't get attention, they will quickly stop asking for it and become use to not having attention. You will also want to make sure your kitten knows that you are caring for him/her. Make sure your kitten sees you filling the food/water bowls and changing the litter box. If it is possible for the kitten to sleep with you, that would be ideal. This will all help your kitten bond to you. This is also why the training we are able to do with the kitten for you is somewhat limited.
After your kitten has bonded to you and grown a little, that is when you will start to see the kitten respond to your emotional needs. You need to understand that a 16 week old kitten might not be capable of responding to your emotional needs as they are still a baby. But after a month or so you will likely begin to see some response when you need it. When you do see that response from your kitten, reward it! Pet the kitten, snuggle and give him/her treats. If you are not able to give treats yourself at that moment, have someone else do it for you while the kitten is responding to you. Rewarding behavior in the moment will be key to training your kitten to continue to respond that same way each time you need it. Again, we can't promise your kitten will respond the correct way every time, but hopefully, with enough time and work, the kitten will come to help you more often than not.
Pricing
The price for a kitten in the Emotional Support Maine Coons Program is not something I discuss until the Waitlist Agreement is sent to you. I do this for 2 reasons.
Reason 1: In the cat world, your legitimacy as a breeder is somewhat tied to the price you sell your kittens at. If you sell your kittens for too little (which I do through the ESMCP), then you are looked at as a “backyard breeder”, or a breeder who only has sick kittens. Having this kind of a reputation can shut a good breeder down. And if my cattery shuts down, I can no longer offer this program to those who need it.
Reason 2: Maine Coons are a very popular cat. Everyone wants one. But there are plenty of people out there who don’t want to pay the price to get a Maine Coon. So, I do not want it to be common knowledge what my kittens through the Emotional Support Maine Coons Program sell for, because I do not want people trying to scam me or telling me sob stories just looking for a “cheap” Maine Coon. Again, that will not bode well for this Program or the people who truly need it.
Both of these reasons boil down to me wanting, and needing to protect my name, cattery and this Program. Again, you will be told the price of a kitten through the Program when the Waitlist Agreement is sent to you. It is actually clearly spelled out in my Waitlist Agreement that you will not discuss the price of the kitten you are getting with anyone besides me or post it on any form of social media.
To learn more about our pricing, as well as what each kitten goes home with, please click here.
